Lesvos
Lesvos, Greece's third largest island, has a long history and varied,
fascinating scenery. The birthplace of the illustrious ancient poets Sappho
and Alkaios, the guitarist Arion, the musician Terpander and Pittakos
of Mitilini, one of the Seven Sages of antiquity, it even today continues
the tradition of producing famous artists, poets and writers.
The island's capital is Mitilini, built like an amphitheatre above its
ancient namesake and with its Byzantine castle towering over it from the
top of a pine-covered hill. On the northeast edge of town there is a Hellenistic
theatre with superb acoustics which once accommodated an audience of 10,000,
while to the east of it you can see a section of ancient polygonal wall.
The Archaeological Museum contains a wealth of finds and the Byzantine
Museum has exhibits from both the Byzantine and post-Byzantine periods.
The town also boasts some interesting churches: the Cathedral dedicated
to St. Athanassios, Agios Therapontas and Agii Theodori, which has wonderful
wood carvings and icons.
Varia, a suburb of Mitilini, is the site of the Theofilos Museum with
works by Greece's best-loved naif painter Theofilos and the Teriade Museum
- Library housing the "Great Books" and art magazines published
and donated by Lesvos' famous art critic, Stratis Eleftheriades (Teriade).
Its walls are hung with lithographs from the Great Books done by Picasso,
Matisse, Chagall, Leger and other famous 20th century artistis.
6km. away at Moria there is a section of Roman aqueduct erected in the
2nd century A.D. In the northeast part of the island, after passing a
series of charming coastal villages, the first major place you should
visit is Mantamados, known for its characteristic stone houses, fine pottery,
wood carvings, and delicious local cheeses. Don't miss a stop at the Monastery
of the Taxiarch, which possesses the only relief portrait of the Archangel
in the Orthodox world.
Further north, you come to Sikamia, the birthplace of the famous novelist,
Stratis Myrivilis, and its port Skala Sikamias, a picturesque fishing
harbour with a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Gorgona (Mermaid) described
in Myrivilis' novel of the same name.
The next stop is Molivos or Mithimna, the island's best known resort
and artists' colony, whose mediaeval castle and traditional architecture
give it a distinctive atmosphere. Among its sights are its archaeological
museum, library and a small picture gallery.
Another of Lesvos' well known places is Agiassos, near the middle of
the island. This attractive village has kept its old flavour and the fame
of its pottery and wood carving has traveled well beyond Greece. It also
has an Ecclesiastical and Folk Art Museum and a Reading Society with a
theatre and a goodsized library. Don't miss the Church of the Virgin (Panagia)
with its collection of old icons, which includes an icon of the Mother
and Child (Vrefocratoussa) attributed to St. Luke.
Further west, Agia Paraskevi, a market town with old mansions, is known
for its curious Festival of the Bull, celebrated since 1774. Near here,
at Klopedi, are the remains of the ancient Aeolian temple of Napaios Apollo,
while Messa, also nearby, boasts the ruins of a big Ionian temple (late
4th-early 3rd century B.C.), possibly dedicated to three deities, Zeus,
Hera and Dionysos.
A monument from a later date, the Early Christian basilica of St. George,
restored by the noted mediaevalist, professor A. Orlandos, may be seen
at Halinados, not far away.
Just a short distance from Agia Paraskevi, in the island's centre, is
Kaloni, a modern town and transportation hub, famed for the anchovies
and shellfish caught in its bay. Its port, Skala Kalonis, is a thriving
summer resort with a long sandy beach. Things to see in the vicinity of
Kaloni include the Limnos Monastery (1527), whose church dedicated to
St. John contains interesting 16th century frescoes, a library with 2,500
volumes (450 of which are manuscripts) and an ecclesiastical-folk art
museum.
Sigri, at the western tip of Lesvos, is a pretty fishing port with a
lovely beach and an 18th century fortress. Not far from here is the island's
celebrated Petrified Forest, dating back some fifteen million years. The
fossilized trunks, some fallen, some still erect, some in the sea, are
unusual for the brilliance and diversity of their colours.
Also near Sigri are Eressos, the birthplace of Sapphoand Theophrastos,
and its port Skala Eressou, which has a magnificent beach and full facilities
for tourists. Worth seeing here are the archaeological collection and
the ruined 5th century basilica of Agios Andreas with its stunning mosaics.
On the south coast, other resorts have grown up alongside superb beaches.
These are Vatera and Plomari, Lesvos' second largest town, famed for its
exceptional ouzo and interesting architecture.Lesvos abounds in mineral
springs, where health spas have been developed, as at the Gulf of Gera,
Thermi, Lisvori, Eftalou, Polichnitos, etc.
Psara
Psara is 44 nautical miles north west of Chios and forms a group of small
islands, of which only the largest with the settlement of the same name,
is inhabited. It has a surface of 43 sq. km, its coastline has a length
of 36km, and it has only 450 inhabitants.
The other islands that form the group are Antipsara, with a small settlement
and no permanent population, Kato Nisi, Daskaleio, Ai- Nikolaki, and other
smaller ones.
On Psara, there are no tall trees, but still the whole island is covered
by bushes, especially thyme, which produces excellent honey that is wanted
most by visitors. The island has no particular fauna, but the locals rear
rabbits at home.
Birthplace of famous independence war fighter, Constantine Kanaris, Psara
is the largest, in a complex of small islands by the same name. Very quiet,
sporting the typical Aegean beauty, Psara is not for the visitors that
seek the thrill of a cosmopolitan vacation. There are no cars or motorbikes,
there is only one small fishing village and the access to near-by beaches
is possible only on foot. The village hosts a small archaeological museum,
and as in most of Greece, there is also a 15th century castle worth visiting.
The islet of Psara is ideal for those who long for quiet and serene holidays,
offering few opportunities for nightlife. One can spend the evening at
the quiet tavernas on the island, where the conversation, the drinking
and the dinner can last until dawn. The local and foreign people gather
at the island's feasts, singing, dancing, drinking and eating tasty seatidbits.
Chios
Chios, south of Limnos, claims to be the birthplace of Homer. Its landscape
is very varied and its main crop is mastic, the "chew in chewing
gum", produced by trees that grow nowhere else in the world.
Its capital and chief port, also called Chios, is a lively town on the
east coast of the island, opposite the shores of ancient Ionia. A happy
blend of traditional and modern, Chios has a large mediaeval castle which
dominates the harbour. Its walls enclose the old section of town, whose
houses are embellished with lattice windows and balconies.
The town also has two distinguished museums, the Archaeological Museum
with finds from the island, and the Museum of Modern Greek Sculpture with
works by the internationally famous sculptor, Halepas, among others. In
addition, the Korai Library, one of the most important in Greece, contains
95,000 volumes, including the founder's collection of rare books, and
an exhibit of local costumes.
The south part of the island is where the mastic trees grow in abundance.
An unprepossessing, bush-like plant, its sticky sap forms crystals which
are gathered for use in many products, including pharmaceuticals.
The villages in this district, the so-called Mastichohoria or Mastic Villages,
have retained their vivid mediaeval character. The first one you come
to is Armolia (24km.), known for its pottery and its ruined 14th century
Genoese castle. Pirgi (30km.) is the second in line. It looks as though
it has emerged intact from the Middle Ages, with its narrow, often roofed
alleyways and its house facades covered with the unique "xysta"
decorations, geometric patterns in grey and white.
Eight kilometres from Pirgi there are traces of a 6th century B.C. temple
of Apollo in the archaeological site of Phanes. Emborios, 10km. south
of Pirgi, is a typical seaside village, whose wonderful beach is composed
of black pebbles. Another well-preserved village, Mesta, lies 10km. west
of Pirgi. Many of its traditional houses have been converted by the GNTO
into charming places for visitors to stay. 11km. from Pirgi is the fishing
hamlet of Limenas where there are delightful beaches for bathing. In the
northern half of Chios the first stopping point is the village of Vrontados
(5km.), which boasts the famous "Daskalopetra" ("Teacher's
Rock), where legend maintains Homer used to teach.
Langadas (15km.) is a picturesque fishing village not far from Delfinio,
an ancient naval and military base founded by the Athenians in 412 B.C.
Kardamila and Marmaro are two more typical fishing villages set at the
back of little bays with a variety of delightful places to swim. Continuing
northwest, you will arrive at Volissos (40km.), one of Chios's most beautiful
villages, spread over the lower slopes of a hill where the remains of
a Byzantine castle stand sentinal. Tradition has it that this is one of
the many possible birthplaces of Homer. The road to Volissos passes through
impressive mountain scenery with wonderful views towards the sea. Two
kilometres away, the fishing hamlet of Limia is where you can board the
caique that sails to Psara and the Monastery of Agia Markela (5km.).
Finally, in the hills to the west of the capital, stands Nea Moni, the
island's most important Byzantine monument. Founded in the 11th century
by a monk named Constantine, the monastery contains extraordinary frescoes
and mosaics. In the same area, the evocative buildings in the semi-abandoned
mediaeval villages of Avgonima and Anavatos transport the visitor to another
era.
Swimmers will find a variety of lovely beaches on Chios. These include
the resort of Karfas, not far from town, Agia Ermioni, Komi, Vrontodo,
Agia Markela and others.
For a new taste experience, try some of the traditional Greek "spoon
sweets", preserves made from a plethora of ingredients, for which
the island is famous.
Samos
Samos, one of the most easterly Aegean islands just a stone's throw from
the coast of Asia Minor, is renowned for its wines, particularly for the
white muscat wine found nowhere else.
The birthplace of many philosophers and mathematicians of antiquity,
such as Epikouros, Aristarches, Pythagoras and others, Samos delights
today's visitors with its lush greenery, varied landscapes and fascinating
archaeological sites.
Among the island's first inhabitants were the Pelasgians, who established
the worship of the goddess Hera on Samos. Samos reached its greatest prosperity
during the reign of the tyrant Polycrates, becoming one of the most powerful
city-states of Ionia, dominating the seas with its famous samaines, boats
with five tiers of oarsmen.
The capital, Samos Town or Vathi, is built on the verdant slopes that
surround the island's deepest bay. It has retained its individual appearance,
with its attractive neoclassical houses, old mansions with pastel facades.
The town boasts two major museums: the Archaeological Museum with displays
of ancient sculptures, including the celebrated Kouros of Samos, vases
and objects from the Geometric and Archaic eras, most of which were found
at the Heraion (Sanctuary of Hera), the island's chief ancient site; and
the Byzantine Museum with heirlooms from Samian monasteries.
From Vathi, if you take the road heading south, your first stop will
be Pithagorio (familiarly known as Tigani, 14km.), a small, picturesque
port occupying the site of the ancient capital. The present-day jetty
has been constructed on top of the ancient foundations. The area abounds
in important ruins: the Polycrates Wall (2nd half 6th century B.C.), the
ancient theatre, and the famous Eupalinos Tunnel, a technical marvel dating
to the 6th century B.C., which used to supply the town with water. The
small archaeological museum houses local finds.To the right of the port
the castle of Lycourgos Logothetis can be seen atop a hillock. This 19th
century edifice most probably rests on the ruins of the former acropolis.
Within its walls are two Roman colonnades as well as the remains of Early
Christian churches.
Not far from Pithagorio is the archaeological site of the Heraion, with
its sanctuary to Hera of Samos, one of the biggest of antiquity. Within
its precincts, where tradition maintained that the goddess was born and
raised, are the ruins of a temple dedicated in her honour, Hellenistic
and Roman buildings and even part of an Early Christian basilica.
Karlovassi, on the north coast of the island, is its second largest harbour,
composed of three districts, Old, New and Middle Karlovassi. Here, too,
you will find imposing neoclassical houses, reminders of earlier prosperous
times, while 2km. away bathers will love the sandy beach of Potami, rimmed
with luxuriant greenery.
The drive between Samos (Vathi) and Karlovassi runs along the magical
coastline, cutting through riotous vegetation and picturesque villages.
Six km. south of Karlovassi, set in marvelous surroundings, is the village
of Marathokambos, which acts as a "balcony" over the island's
southern beaches and has both old churches and caves to explore.
Still further south is the tiny harbour of Ormos, good for fishing and
swimming, while beyond it lies a string of lovely beaches - Votsalakia,
Hrissi Amos, Ai Gianis Eleimonas. If you return to Samos by the inland
road, you will come to the village of Mitilini, a market centre for the
island. Here there is a very interesting paleontological museum filled
with the fossilized remains of early horned beasts, mammoths and carnivores.
Ikaria
Ikaria, a mountainous, thickly forested island, perpetuates the myth
of Ikarus and his fall into the sea near its shores after his bold attempt
to reach the sun with his waxen wings. In antiquity the island was called
Makri (Long) and Aeoliki because of its rectangular shape, and Ichthyoessa
because of its abundant fish. The south coast of the island is barren
with steep cliffs, while the north is somewhat more gentle. Its scenery
is wild and rugged, with the Atheras mountain range (called Pramios in
antiquity) running the length of the island, furrowed by lush ravines,
gorges and gullies that descend all the way to the coast.
Agios Kirikos, the island's capital and chief port, is built on a hillside,
the balconies of its houses almost invisible amongst their flowers. Though
small, its archaeological museum, containing Neolithic, Geometric and
Roman finds, is of considerable interest.Southwest of the capital, the
first village you come to is Therma Lefkadas, where mineral springs bubble
up through its sands. Beyond it, there is a string of sheltered ports
and hamlets with houses made of dry stone walls until the road ends in
the wooded village of Hrissostomos.
Returning to Agios Kirikos and taking the road to the northeast this
time, your first stop might be Therma, known since antiquity for its radioactive
springs. There is little trace of the ancient settlement.Continuing on
in this direction, you next come to Evdilos, Ikaria's second port and
its former capital. The little village of Kambos, 2.5km. from Evdilos,
is of interest thanks to its small archaeological museum with finds from
the area. It occupies the site of ancient Oinoe, (Inoi), once renowned
for its grapes and, according to some myths, the first place in Greece
to cultivate the vine. All that remains of it today is the ancient walls,
an aqueduct and a building known as Palatia (the Palaces).
In the mountain hamlet of Kossikia, the 10th century castle of Nikaria
is a typical example of Byzantine architecture. Armenistis is the next
stop, a region of thick pine forest with an abundance of fresh water and
a superb beach. Hristos tis Rahis, a village jutting into the open sea
like a stone balcony, is also picturesque. If you continue on, don't miss
the 11th century Monastery of the Virgin of Mounte, which has frescoes
and a panoramic view. Not far from Armenistis is the miniature port of
Nas, once the site of one of antiquity's most celebrated sanctuaries dedicated
to Artemis. Today nothing is left but traces of the quay and parts of
the temple floor.
To visit Ikaria's other charming villages and beaches, particularly those
on the south coast, you will have to take a caique from Agios Kirikos.
There is a yacht refueling station at Agios Kirikos.
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